Sunday, June 1, 2008

Central Plains food


Central Thailand is delta country, many rain-fed rivers flowing southwards over the flat terrain to create a fertile soil in which almost any crop can flourish. In appearance, the land is a vast checkerboard of paddy fields, orchards and vegetable gardens, fed by the rivers, by streams, and by a network of canals that supplies farm irrigation and freshwater fisheries, and acts as a means of transport.

Although the presence of Bangkok in f the heart of the Central Region has acted like a magnet to draw in regional influences, there are still many local specialities that mark out the food styles here as distinctively Central. The best rice is grown in this region, notably the hom mali, or jasmine rice, that is so highly rated as a Thai export. There are three curries typical of the region; namely, the familiar green curry (Kaeng khieo wan) to which is usually added poultry or fish; a hot curry known as kaeng phet, and a milder version called kaeng phanaeng. All are based on coconut milk.Tom yam, the famous hot and sour soup, originates from the Central Region. There is also a creamy coconut milk soup made with chicken called tom kha kai. Yam, the tangy salads, are a Central invention. Haw mok, llittle banana leaf cups of a souffle-like mix made from red curry paste, egg and coconut milk, with seafood added, are a popular snack item. Phat phet is a stir-fry with basil and curry paste. Most meals in the Central Region will include an omelette of some kind, either a plain one served with a thick sweet chilli sauce, or with oysters added. There is a more substantial omelette filled with ground pork, tomato and onion, called khai yat sai.The Chinese influence is especially strong in the Central Region. You will find it in the plain soups that usually include tofu, ground pork and green squash, in the clay pot dishes, and of course in the noodle dishes such as kuay tiaw.Travel a little within the Central Region and you will find some real local specialities. At Nakhon Pathom, to the west of Bangkok, you will find sticky rice and coconut steamed in a length of bamboo. This is known as khao lam. You will also find it at Nong Mon Market in Chon Buri Province, near Pattaya, a roadside market about kilometre in length that is also famed for its dried fish. Chanthaburi, close to the Cambodian border, has its own noodles fried with crab meat. A distinctively flavored leaf, chamuang, grows in the forests here, and is used in curries. There is a chilli paste dip from the coastal areas of the eastern Central Region, made from crab, egg, and yellow chilli.Travel southwest of Bangkok to the town of Phetchaburi and you will find khanom maw kaeng, a baked custard. There are many varieties but they are all based on mung bean, egg and coconut milk. Slightly further south, along the coast, Cha-am and Hua Hin are renowned for their seafood. Cha-am has a picturesque harbour where oysters are brought in fresh by the tremendous variety of curries created by the Mon ethnic grouping.


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